Day 1962 (Saturday) 22nd October 2022

We went to Le Phare last night and there was quite a crowd and we had a good laugh, I had to wear cotton trousers and a blouse but no jacket was required. 

This was sunrise this morning

This morning it was sunny again and I’m back in my summer dress during the day and long trousers in the evening. Huw went up to the big apartment to do some odd-jobs and went shopping and took this lovely photo. 

The next guest arrives soon and she is staying for five months and is bringing a cat! Apparently she is British but lives in America and we have no idea why she is staying so long in such a big apartment. We will have to do a deal with her to clean it at least twice a month.

I hadn’t thought of France as somewhere to go snorkelling so I was quite surprised to read this article…

9 of the best snorkelling sites in France

A swim in the sea is a popular French holiday experience, but if you want to take it to the next level why not try snorkelling? We asked snorkelling expert and writer Nigel Thomas to give us a run-down of some of the best places to try it.

Published: 12 July 2022 11:43 CEST

Photo: Guillaume Astegiano

If, like me, you were a fan of Jacques Cousteau’s adventures, you are probably happy to spend your leisure time, in, around or under the sea, but if you’re a beginner or are looking for something a little more family-friendly, you might consider giving snorkelling a go.

France has some great sites for this, listed in more detail on the Snorkelling Report website, which details how to get to there and what to see, tips on safety and, possibly most important, where to eat and drink afterwards.

The below list only includes mainland France. The French départements et régions d’outré mer, which arguably include some of the best sites in the world, will have to be left for another day, but can be found on the website. 

So, to begin, we can go to Corsica.

Corsica has some of the clearest waters on the whole of the French coast, with numerous sites worthy of a visit.  One of the top sites is Cala Achiarina. 

Located on the main island’s west coast, Cala Achiarina is included in the Lavezzi Islands, a small archipelago located off Bonifacio.

Protected by a marine reserve for 40 years, it boasts the most pristine waterscapes and thriving sea life in Corsica. The natural pool at Cala Achiarina is just in front of a beautiful (though often packed) beach making it a perfect place for beginners. It is also a great place to get close to wildlife: fish are particularly inquisitive here.

For more experienced snorkellers a visit to Cala Della Chiesa, also on the Lavezzi Islands, is recommended.

Another great site on Corsica is found off the beach at Palombaggia. 

The site is located in southern Corsica, about 5 kilometres south of Porto Vecchio city centre.  It is part of Bouches de Bonifacio Marine Reserve, where fishing has been regulated since 1999: consequently, the density of fish and variety of species is particularly good.

Mainland France has a range of habitat types which will appeal to a variety of different snorkellers. 

Firstly, at Cannes, you will be able to find the Cannes Underwater Museum. Made up of six monumental sculptures depicting portraits of locals immersed near Sainte-Marguerite Island, the site adds some magic to the French Riviera’s underwater world. Freely accessible from shore, this singular spot, with artistic but also ecological accents, aims to protect and provide refuge for marine life. 

The underwater artworks at Cannes. Photo: Guillaume Astegiano

Further to the west you will find the Pointe de l’Aiguille.

It is considered one of the most beautiful snorkelling locations on the French Riviera. Located at the foot of the red cliffs of Esterel, it offers a turquoise sea where an exceptional marine biodiversity flourishes, highlighted by a short snorkel trail.

Here you will spot not only common Mediterranean species (seabream, salema, wrasse), but also rarer fish, such as brown meagre, scorpionfish or dusky grouper. A spot that is definitely worth a visit if you are in the area.

Octopus is fairly common at this location, protected by a marine reserve.

Another of the more unusual sites can be found in the shallow waters at Hyeres, on the north-western side of the Giens peninsula. 

This is the location of the archaeological site of the ancient Roman port of Olbia. 

With its shallow archaeological remains located a few dozen meters from the beach, Olbia offers a unique snorkelling experience. Between history and nature, you will be able to freely explore an old Roman wharf and a 19th-century wreck, around which many Mediterranean fish live.

To the south of the Presque Isle de Giens lie the Îles d’Hyères. The largest island of this group is Porquerolles, which, with its neighbour, Port Cros, present some of the finest locations to observe the Mediterranean marine fauna at its most natural. 

Listed by snorkelling-report as the top spot in the whole of the Mediterranean, the Plage de la Palud on Port Cros should not be missed. 

Located in Port Cros National Park (the oldest National Marine Park in the Mediterranean, first opened in 1963) hundreds of sociable fish, who have long been used to human presence, crisscross the calm, crystal-clear waters.

Visitors can also explore the diversity of the marine world thanks to the snorkel trail that has been laid down in the bay. It is one of the very rare spots in France where you can spot brown meagre and dusky grouper at snorkelling depth.

Further to the west, past Marseille, the coastline is not the best for snorkelling, due to the extensive stretches of sand.

However, once you reach the border with Spain rocky headlands occur. 

Before we head there you should pop in and see the seahorses at the Pontoon de la Bordelaise in the Etang de Thau, near Sète.  The population of these fascinating little fish have increased sharply in recent years and encounters with them are always unforgettable.  They can often be found near shore in only a metre of water. 

A long-snouted seahorse photographed at the foot of Ponton de la Bordelaise. Photo: Guillaume Astegiano

The last site on the Mediterranean coast is located in the heart of a marine reserve, established in 1974. 

The Plage de Peyrefite (Peyrefite Beach) is the most popular snorkelling spot on the Vermeille Coast. It is located between Banyuls-sur-Mer and the Spanish border, in a well-sheltered rocky creek, where a snorkel trail has been set. 

The long established no-fishing area has encouraged many larger individuals including some huge specimens, especially gilt-head bream, sargo and saddled seabream.

You might be wondering about the rest of France?  Sorry to say that few records have been made for the Atlantic coast on the website so far, due to the rougher seas, poorer visibility and water a tad on the chilly side. 

Having said that a site worthy of a visit can be found southwest of Quimper, on the Etocs Archipelago.  This is one of the best spots in Brittany for snorkelling with grey seals. Attracted by the rocky islets and the fishy waters of the small archipelago, a dozen seals have settled in this protected area. By kayak head to the islets and jump into the water to swim with these inquisitive creatures!

Grey seals can be very inquisitive and get close to snorkellers.