Day 1971 (Monday) 31st October 2022

Happy Halloween 

It was another glorious day today, warm and sunny and I spent a few hours in the sunshine. At around 4pm you have to wear long trousers and long sleeves but during the daytime it’s glorious. Apparently it isn’t going to be nice tomorrow – typical as it’s a bank holiday. I still haven’t heard from the Maybourne hotel so I really don’t think it’s going to happen but my boss in Cannes thinks she has a new student for me in Nice twice a week. 

This is what’s happening in France this week…

What’s happening in France this week

From the introduction of new hours for street lighting, plus book prizes, traffic warnings and a public holiday, here's what is happening in France this week.

Monday

Halloween – not quite as big a deal in France as it is in the US, Halloween still sees some events in France, although trick or treating is definitely less common. If you’re going to Halloween party, at least you don’t need to worry about getting an early night, as Tuesday is a public holiday.

No confidence (again) – Prime Minister Elisabeth Borne faces two more votes of no-confidence in parliament, both linked to the government’s use of Article 49.3 to push through its budget. Like the votes last week, they are not expected to succeed in bringing down the government.

Tuesday

Holiday – November 1st is All Saints Day (Toussaint) and in France that means a day off work. In fact, don’t be surprised if many of your colleagues are not in on Monday either, as this represents one of the rare changes to faire le pont (create a ‘bridge’ long weekend) in 2022. On a related note, traffic forecaster Bison futé predicts heavy traffic in the Paris region on Tuesday, as people return from their long weekend trips.

Winter tyres – winter or all-weather tyres are compulsory in 48 areas of France from November 1st. The new law was introduced last year, and fines were due to start being handed out on November 1st – although the transport minister has now announced a grace period until the end of the year.

Trève hivernale – the ‘winter truce’ also begins on November 1st, meaning that landlords cannot evict tenants who are in arrears until the truce ends in April 2023. Utility companies also cannot disconnect gas or electricity supplies.

Ban on illuminated signs – all lit-up signs must now be turned off between the hours of 1am and 6am, with the exception of transport interchanges. Many towns will also change the hours that street lights are illuminated from November 1st as part of their energy-saving plans.

Wednesday 

Senate reading – the Senate begins debates on the 2023 Budget.

Thursday

Book prizes – the prestigious Goncourt literary prize is handed out in France.

Traffic warning – this weekend marks the end of the Toussaint school holidays and roads, especially in the Paris region, are expected to be busier than normal as families return home from trips away.

Not many pumpkins but a day off: How the French celebrate Halloween

Visitors from countries such as the UK and - in particular the USA - might be expecting to see the shops full of pumpkins, ghost costumes and mini candy, but in France things are a little more restrained around Halloween.

People get dressed up for a zombie walk in Lille, eastern France. Photo: AFP

While the French do acknowledge the event, it’s much less of a big deal that it is in some other countries.

That’s not to say it isn’t marked though – a 2019 survey by Maison Budget found that some 45 percent of French households were planning to put up Halloween decorations in their homes and 37 percent to decorate the outside of their houses with spiders’ webs or witches on broomsticks.

However 46 percent firmly believed it’s just a commercial festival and 19 percent thought it’s just for kids. 

French supermarkets are generally boasting some ready-made decorations around now, and there’s also a couple of shelves of trick-or-treat ready candy and sweets.

That’s because – unsurprisingly – French children have really taken to the idea of roaming their neighbourhood in creepy costumes demanding sugary snacks.

It’s not as ubiquitous as it is in the USA, but you may find you get a few mini ghouls or witches knocking on your door come October 31st.

And one side of the festival that France has really taken to is the blood and gore.

One American in Paris told The Local: “In the States the costumes are a lot more fun, or sexy, but in France they really like the horror aspect.”

There are also an increasing number of events with some cities hosting ‘zombie walks’ and fancy dress events. This year Bordeaux, Toulouse, Strasbourg and Paris are holding zombie events, mostly over the pre-Halloween weekend.  

Pumpkin lanterns are a less common, however. Although you will find the vegetable in the shops at around  this time of year, the majority of French people are buying them to cook, not carve.

But in good news, the French do celebrate the season in much more practical way – by giving people the day off.

November 1st, All Saints Day known as Toussaint in France, is a bank holiday.

That means if you’re going to a Halloween party you don’t need to worry about being hungover at work the following day. This year November 1st falls on a Tuesday, one of the few opportunities in 2022 to faire le pont – so expect plenty of your colleagues to have booked Monday as a day off to create a nice four-day weekend.

 

Some things you need to know about Halloween in France

Are your kids thrilled about Halloween? Before you start bobbing for les pommes, read these things you need to know about Halloween in France.

If you’re an expat who loves all things Halloween, you’ll know that the scariest part of the big day is finding out that your new home country doesn’t really celebrate it. But, before you hide behind the sofa and hold out for Noël, check out these things you should know about Halloween in France. You might just find a few treats… or tricks…

1. Don’t let your expectations get spooked

The first thing to remember when celebrating Halloween in France is that you’re celebrating Halloween in France. This means that it’s unlikely to be the same fun-filled festival of candy and costumes that you might be used to. In fact, if you’re arriving from the US or Canada, you may find that the holiday seems to pass you by without much fanfare at all. However, if you’re happiest at Halloween, don’t let that put you off. Simply adjust your expectations accordingly and you’ll soon find Halloween in l’Hexagone is just as fun as all those childhood memories.

2. Halloween is not a French tradition

Despite having its roots in the Celtic cultures of Europe, Halloween in France is not a traditional holiday and actually came from North America in the 1990s. However, La Toussaint, also known in English as All Saints Day, is a widely celebrated national holiday in France.

This takes place the following day – November 1st – and traditionally sees the French honour the dead through flowers and special events. As the French are fiercely proud of their customs and heritage, Halloween is largely overshadowed by La Toussaint, which also coincides with two weeks of school vacations throughout the country.

3. Many French people think Halloween is too commercial

One of the reasons the US-style Halloween celebration hasn’t quite taken off in France is simply because it’s too American. This alone has led much of French society to turn their nose up at the holiday. The locals see the celebration as being too commercialised – another reason for supermarkets and other stores to sell more candy, costumes, and alcohol. This is why you won’t see as many shop windows decked out with elaborate Halloween displays. That said, this is slowly starting to change, especially in big cities. 

4. French attitudes to Halloween are changing… slowly

Despite the fact that many locals flat-out ignore Halloween, you’ll find that some of the younger French generations are slowly shifting towards accepting it. However, this shift is slow and you shouldn’t be expecting your local village square to be decked out in orange and black ribbons anytime soon. That said, if you’re working or studying in a large French city, you’ll probably find hints of Halloween. Some bars host Halloween parties – often with costume competitions – and you may even find the odd cinema showing some horror films.

5. Don’t say trick-or-treat on Halloween in France

The French don’t say “trick-or-treat”, instead they ask “candies or a spell” (des bonbons ou un sort). However, don’t expect many costumed children to knock on your front door in France as the trick-or-treat tradition isn’t very strong. Depending on where you live, you may have a few groups of kids knocking on your door on Halloween. However, this is the exception and definitely not the rule.

If your children attend an international school in France, or you know other expat parents in your neighbourhood, why not set up your own trick-or-treat exchange? Speak to the other parents and set up a small flavour of the traditional trick-or-treat experience. The kids will be able to get dressed up and live the adventure, and you won’t waste all that candy! Just make sure they use the French terms!

6. Halloween costumes in France are usually scary

Partygoers beware, you’re in for a scare! That’s right, when the French dress up, they typically go scary. While many North American costumes these days are cute, funny, or satirical, if you’re invited to a French Halloween party then expect to be scared. The locals usually go all out for the scariness, dressing up as vampires, ghosts, or maybe even the odd European fairy tale villain. Sadly, if your little ones want an excuse to dress up in their favourite funny or cute costumes, they’ll have to wait for Carnival in early spring.