Day 1695 (Friday) 28th January 2022

It was lovely and sunny again and I caught the train to Monaco. There was a big market in the Centre Commercial with sales of -50% and -70%, so even the rich Monegasques like a good sale.

I had a pleasant ten minutes in Princess Grace’s rose garden before heading into the hotel.

This is the hallway of the 9th floor

And this is the view from their enormous terrace, one of their enormous terraces.

I worked with Olga first and she told me that it was their youngest granddaughter’s first birthday yesterday and showed me photos of the party. They were taken in a lovely room with a conservatory and I asked about the house. This is her middle son who is probably in his late 20s/early 30s and they rent a house in Chelsea, which is very narrow but has five floors, a conservatory and a small garden. This is the same child who had a birthday party in the villa in the summer every month, and whose first flight was on a private plane when she was four months old. Olga told me today that her daughter’s first few flights were also on a private plane and as she got older it was her dream to go on a big plane with everyone else. She’s 21 now and I bet she doesn’t dream of that anymore. As always Olga made me a coffee at the start of the lesson and also brought out a box of Mesiano chocolates, they’re not Jeff de Bruges but they were delicious too. She said they were from Beaulieu so when they are in  the villa she eats these and Jeff de Bruges in Monaco. I met Huw in Beaulieu later and we found the shop.

This is their Valentine’s day display, it must be pretty expensive as there were no price tags on anything.

 

Eduard was next and he wanted to finish a little early because he had a barber’s appointment. So when we finished I went for a short walk around the port of Fontvielle.

While I was in Monaco Huw painted the hall in our flat and Badger had great fun ‘helping’ him.

I found an article on what to do and see in Beaulieu-sur-Mer the other day so I met Huw at Beaulieu train station and we went on a small adventure…

Beaulieu-sur-Mer 

It was 1pm when we met and I was hungry so stopped at the poulet roti sandwich stall because Cedric told me they do the best sandwiches in Beaulieu.

He was right – it was delicious, warm poulet roti and roast potatoes in a fresh baguette.

The French Riviera needs no introduction. From Nice to Cannes, this part of France is famous for its Mediterranean sun and sea. But while some parts of the Cote d’Azur are known the world over, others fly under the radar. Like Beaulieu-sur-Mer, this seaside town is worth a visit.

Beaulieu-sur-Mer is right on the Mediterranean. A stone’s throw from Nice, it often gets overlooked in favour of better-known places like Antibes and Monaco.

But it has its own charms and it’s worth spending a few hours or a day here to take in the many things to do in Beaulieu-sur-Mer and get away from the crowds in more touristy areas of Provence.

In fact, the lack of crowds is one of the best things about this town. Off the tourist trail, it’s free of souvenir shops and offers a more local experience than many other places on the French Riviera.

But it’s not without fame. Beaulieu-sur-Mer has attracted its share of publicity and big-name visitors over the years. Its waters make an appearance in F. Scott Fitzgerald’s Tender is the Night, and Queen Victoria visited in 1899.

In short, Beaulieu-sur-Mer is an ideal place to travel if you like being on the coast, want to live like a local, and enjoy an easy day trip from Nice by train.

How to Get to Beaulieu-sur-Mer

Speaking of which, getting to Beaulieu-sur-Mer is quick and straightforward. The town is on the train line that runs along the coast and into Italy, so it’s a short hop from Nice, Monaco, and other seaside destinations on the Cote d’Azur.

You can also drive here or take the bus from places like Eze. And if you like walking, it’s an easy walk from Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat and Villefranche-sur-Mer.

Where to Stay in Beaulieu-sur-Mer

If you want to stay here, there are a number of good accommodation options and hotels in Beaulieu-sur-Mer.

My top hotel pick is Hotel Carlton. Set right in the heart of town, it’s conveniently located for both the train station and the beach. 

Rooms have stylish classic decor and there’s a swimming pool for sunny days on the French Riviera.

If you want to live like a local, Studio Les Constellations is just the place. This pretty apartment is near the markets and close to the train station. It has a terrace with a lush garden and views, too. (it didn’t look very pretty to us)

Things to Do in Beaulieu-sur-Mer

Once here, there’s no shortage of things to do in Beaulieu-sur-Mer. The town itself is small, but it packs a lot into a diminutive area. From beaches to squares, markets to museums, this place has a lot going for it.

Museums in Beaulieu-sur-Mer

Given one of the most famous things to do in Beaulieu-sur-Mer is visit a certain museum, I’ll start with that. 

Villa Kerylos is the jewel in the crown of this seaside town, and visitors come from all over the world to see it.

Villa Kerylos was built by French archaeologist Theodore Reinach in the Ancient Greek style in the early 20th century. Sitting right on the sea, it has great views across to Cap Ferrat.

Today visitors come to Villa Kerylos to take in said views and see Reinach’s collection inside. The villa contains Greek artifacts, frescoes, art, furniture, and mosaics, and it’s a great place to dig into history.

Musee du Patrimoine Berlugan Andre Cane

In addition to the villa, one of the best things to do in Beaulieu-sur-Mer for culture lovers is visit the town’s history museum.

The Musee du Patrimoine Berlugan Andre Cane has vintage Belle Epoque postcards and photos of famous former residents like British statesman Lord Salisbury, American dancer Isadora Duncan, and Russian composer Igor Stravinsky.

It also has ancient Roman artifacts and memorabilia from James Gordon Bennett Jr, the American editor of the Paris Herald who was a town benefactor.

(It was closed today, in fact it looked like it’s been closed for the winter.) 

The Waterfront

Back outside, there are a lot more things to do in Beaulieu-sur-Mer. There’s a marina on the waterfront, and it’s fun to walk along it and watch the boats bob against the backdrop of the cliffs.

There’s also a small beach called La Plage des Fourmis right in front of the main part of town on the Baie des Fourmis.

There’s another called La Petite Afrique to the east on the Rade de Beaulieu. They’re great for soaking up the sun on hot days.

Behind La Plage des Fourmis beach, the waterfront Parc Beaulieau is full of trees and children’s play areas. 

Behind the marina, the Jardin de L’Olivaie is rife with olive trees and other Mediterranean flora.

The Architecture

But it’s not all natural beauty here. Admiring the heritage buildings is another of my favourite things things to do in Beaulieu-sur-Mer. This is not least because some were designed by famous architects.

Chief among these is La Rotonde, a creation of Gustav Eiffel of Eiffel Tower fame. He set up his winter residence here in 1896 and subsequently designed La Rotonde and the neighbouring casino.

La Rotonde is a beautiful events venue on the waterfront. It has fanciful domes and Corinthian columns, and its yellow facade and curving windows stand out from the buildings around it.

There are also historic churches like the Eglise du Sacre-Coeur de Beaulieu on Boulevard du Marechal Leclerc. With a tall tower, stone facade, and arched windows, this turn-of-the-20th-century gem is beautiful to see.

This giant Christmas bow was on the church next door.

The town is studded with historic villas in all colours, too. Some are hidden behind greenery or up hills, so it’s worth keeping an eye out for them as you go around.

Restaurants in Beaulieu-sur-Mer

One of the best things to do in Beaulieu-sur-Mer is eat. There are some great restaurants and cafés here, and it’s worth taking the time to enjoy a meal while you’re visiting.

My favourite restaurant in Beaulieu-sur-Mer is Le Traiteur des Halles. 

Located on Boulevard Marinoni in front of the main square, it not only serves good food, but also has great people-watching opportunities.

Markets in Beaulieu-sur-Mer

Speaking of food and squares, there are some vibrant markets in Beaulieu-sur-Mer.

There’s a daily produce market along Boulevard Marinoni at Place Marinoni. Vendors sell everything from ripe tomatoes to Italian olive oil (no surprise given how close Italy is).

On Saturday mornings, a Provencal market takes over the same space. It has everything from baskets to blankets on offer. There are stands selling regional cheeses and traditional socca (chickpea pancakes), too.

Market Square

Places to See in the Area

When you’re done exploring the town, walking around the greater area is one of the most exciting things to do in Beaulieu-sur-Mer. It’s close to Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat and Villefranche-sur-Mer, which are also beautiful places to visit.

You can easily walk between the three towns, too. There’s a coastal path that runs from Beaulieu-sur-Mer around the Cap Ferrat peninsula.

From the end of the path it’s an easy walk to Villefranche-sur-Mer. The walk offers beautiful views of the French Riviera, from waterfront villas to yachts and cliffs.

We found everything very quickly as we had seen most of it before but hadn’t realised what they actually were so it was quite informative. By the time we got home I had walked 7.7kms.

This afternoon we were very surprised to see the yacht ‘Bystander’ leaving the bay, it’s been here for about three years – I wonder where it’s going?

We are off to Le Phare now and we’re going to see Andy after not seeing him for a year. He had lived here for over 40 years and last February he moved up north for work and personal reasons. We have all missed him dearly and are very excited about seeing him. He’s here for three weeks doing some work on a villa.

This was Badger’s strange little pose last night; he is sitting in front of the TV with his front paws on a different level to his back paws

Other people’s cats