Day 173 (Monday)
Still in some pain so no walking for me again today – this is the longest we have gone without walking somewhere exciting every single week.
I found this information about the walk we had meant to do this weekend so here’s hoping I’ll be able to do it next week.
Cap d’Ail and the Mala Beach coastal path
View near the start of the Mala footpath looking back towards Monaco
This is really one of my favourite walks down the coast from Monaco into the town of Cap d’Ail just west (in the direction of Nice). This small and pleasant residential town, built in several layers between sea level and the mountainside of the Tête de Chien, is not just a dormitory town for people working in Monaco, even though it is only one station away by train: there are several noteworthy attractions, notably the nice beaches, Belle Epoque architecture and various rather luxurious villas with numerous famous residents over the years, such as Greta Garbo, Winston Churchill, Lord Beaverbrook, Sacha Guitry and the Lumière Brothers.
The Mala footpath
For me though, the main reason to head to Cap d’Ail though is the wonderful 3.6 km long coastal path which can comfortably be covered in just over an hour and stretches from the Plage Marquet (500m west of the border with Monaco at Fontvieille) to the splendid Plage de la Mala. This footpath, not to be used during days with rough seas, can easily be accessed by car or on foot from Monaco train station: most of it is pretty easy even if you’re not great hikers, apart from the last approach to the Mala beach which is slightly more strenuous. In the summer, there isn’t much shade and things can get rather warm, especially around midday, so, as with any coastal walks you do on the Riviera, bring plenty of suncream and more water than you think you will need. I would advise you to cover it starting from Monaco and ending at the Mala (leaving the best till last), although it can also be done in the opposite direction.
The coastal footpath approaching Mala beach
Leaving behind the wall of concrete that marks the border with Monaco and the port of Cap d’Ail, the vegetation suddenly turns wild and one follows a succession or rocky coves and bays, whilst passing underneath sumptuous Belle Epoque villas, where one can only imagine the sumptuous views enjoyed by the inhabitants. There are also plenty of little detours and easily accessible coves with secluded areas to swim in. Finally, the last bend round the cape and a beautiful but strenuous staircase bring you to what, in my humble opinion, is probably the most secluded, magical and beautiful beach in the whole Côte d’Azur, la Mala.
The beautiful limestone cliffs on Mala Beach – just like in Thailand!
The turquoise deep water bay is surrounded by limestone cliffs with a view of the eastern coast of the Cap Ferrat peninsula in the distance and I used to describe it to my hotel guests as looking like Thailand. In summer, the water is dotted with yachts and the two rather exclusive beach bars are packed by some of the rich and famous (have bumped into one of the former James Bonds several times there, relaxing and having a beer, which is why one of my British friends visiting generally refers to la Mala as “Roger Moore Beach”). But out of the peak tourist season, the beach isn’t too crowded, the footpath is full of local families and the beauty of the area is just surreal. Note that even from the train, you can get a great view from above of la Mala, just before arriving in Cap d’Ail station (in the direction of Monaco and Ventimiglia/Italy).
I hate to admit this but this evening we finally gave in and sat indoors. This is the first time we’ve done this since we’ve been here. Huw tried to get the heating going and it’s warm enough but we’re not sure how to get it going properly. We still had the door open all night when we went to bed so it’s not all bad.
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