Day 144 (Sunday)

The clocks went back today – I can’t believe we are going to lose the sun off our terrace at 3pm now – that’s just horrible but I guess I should be satisfied that we still have proper sun and it’s almost November.

We both had a nice lazy day today, well Huw did – I had to catch up on this blog because I hadn’t written for four days. We did lose the sun at 3pm and it’s a bit cooler today but we still sat in the sun for four hours so I really mustn’t complain. I had a call this morning from Helene (Chadwick’s wife) inviting us to the bar lunchtime. I turned her down this time, as we wanted a day off so I’ve made arrangements to meet her on Wednesday after school. Then I realised that Wednesday is a bank holiday so I won’t be in school but I can meet her anyway.

It’s 6pm and it’s getting dark but the light show every evening before it gets dark is stunning. It was the same tonight as it was last night so that is something to look forward to every evening for a while.

So nothing much to report today so here are the rest of the markets.

Avignon (Villeneuve-lès-Avignon)

Just across the Rhone from Avignon itself, a moderate-sized, appealing flea market is held in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon on Saturday mornings. Between 80 and 100 vendors set up here, offering a wide range of items, many with a focus on Provence – Provençal ceramics, garden pots and accessories, bedspreads and linens, agricultural tools and utensils, "boules" etc. This is a good market for those hoping to make an interesting discovery, at a reasonable price.

Carpentras – parking des Platanes

On Sundays, all day (starting around 10), the town of Carpentras, north of Avignon, hosts a large, sprawling flea market. This is a favoured haunt of the more intrepid collector, willing to forage through boxes and crates in search of a gem. Many of the 130 to 150 vendors here are regular people selling their own belongings, which often fall more into the category of "second-hand" than "collectable". The variety in terms of wares and prices is huge, with an emphasis on the rustic and everyday, rather than fine decorative objects. If you are looking for something really unusual and surprising, this is one of the best places to find it, though you will have to expend some energy in the process. On a recent visit, for example, I saw a stuffed wild boar head, as well as some Rosenthal china, in a box of broken crockery.

Orléans – Boulevard Alexandre Martin

The town of Orléans, a gateway to the Loire region, has a moderate-sized, but wide-ranging, flea market on Saturday mornings. The several vendors who display their wares in boxes or heaped on blankets will appeal to bargain hunters. Rustic items, tied to the agricultural and fishing roots of the surrounding region, are much in evidence – tools, buckets, jugs, wine-making implements, planters, baskets, fishing rods, glass domes (used to protect young plants), etc. You will also see finer ceramics and porcelain, and good-quality linens, alongside crates of kitchenware and utensils. Prices are generally reasonable and vendors are keen to sell. This is a market easily accessible as a day trip, by TGV, from Paris.

Arles – Boulevard des Lices

A modest-sized, but interesting, flea market is held in Arles on the first Wednesday of the month, all day. While spanning a wide variety in terms of collectables, this is a market much in tune with its southern Provençal roots. Vintage Arlesian clothing – black vests, short jackets, white blouses, colourful shawls, and full skirts – can be found here, as well as ribbons, beaded purses, and lace. This corner of Provence is also reflected in "santons" (ceramic figures in Provençal dress), door handles with images of Camargue bulls, ceramic "cigales" (cicadas), and nail-studded "boules".